I’ve had a busy week re-entering into my life here on Tibetts Mountain. My time alone on the Allagash was magical. I left the group off at their car midway down the Allagash Wilderness Waterway. I had a tail wind for the remainder of the day…which was awesome. I stood up to use my body as a sail. I came to really enjoy standing while paddling. By the end I was standing through the rapids. I found that I could see and avoid the rocks much easier this way. The river was fairly easy the rest of the trip with class I and some easy class II. I was never really challenged by the white water on this these sections.
The first day I paddled through Long Lake and then lined the canoe around an old dam ( Long Lake dam). It looks runnable and some people make it through, but there are metal spikes in the water which have been known to shred boats. I opted to line it.
Then I continued down river to Round Pond. Before entering Round Pond, I saw an American Elm on the left. What a beautiful tree this was, and how lucky we are to have this lone survivor with us after the death of most of its species. Just after entering Round Pond, the wind picked up and whipped the lake into 2 foot seas in a matter of minutes. I’ve never seen a lake grow chop and seas so fast. The wind pushed me straight to the Squirrel Cove in minutes, though it was a little scary in the big water. I got there around 2:30 or 3 PM.
Squirrel Cove and Round Pond were very beautiful with lots of cedar trees. I saw an eagle sitting on a tree. I found a tree that was overhanging the water, and I sat on it for a long time and watched the heavy waves roll in to the shore.
The second day started paddling by 6:30. I had a heavy head wind for much of this day, which whipped up white caps on the river. I found that the wind would turn the boat quickly and I had to fight hard to keep the boat from wind cocking. Despite the head wind, the current kept me moving along.
I paddled to Michaud Farms ranger station and signed in. Then I paddled to The Allagash Falls for the Portage. Carrying the canoe over the portage was painful and I had to stop three times and rest my shoulders. The main problem was the pain from the yoke digging into my neck/shoulders. Allagash Falls were beautiful. The Falls were very loud and were dropping a lot of water. It was hard to imagine the log drivers of old, picking apart log jams that occurred in these falls.
I paddled to the Big Brook East and was there around 2 or 2:30 pm. I chose the East campsite so that I’d have plenty of sun during the evening. I wanted to stay here because I could get to town relatively early the next day and drive home. There is a nice stream on Big Brook East and I used my Steripen UV light to purify some water. It was very yummy. I hung out in the sun and read the Gil Gilpatrick Allagash History book during the evening.
That night I heard some splashing sounds that were repeated every so often. I surmised that it was a moose that was feeding. Every so often it would shake off and I could hear its heavy fur flapping. Then I fell asleep and dreamed of the moose…I kept it away from my hammock with a cantaloupe that I waved at it.
The next morning I was on the river at 5:30. There was fog on the river and it was cold. I found that my hands and feet got cold, though the rest of me was dry. The fog made the small rips challenging to paddle through. It took 3 hours to get to town and the take out. I was at the car by 8:30. I had a meal at a Diner, loaded the vehicle and was on my way. I left by 10 am and was home by 6:30.
I didn’t want to leave and when I got home, I couldn’t stop thinking of the waterway and wanting to be up there on it. Joan and I talked about buying some land and building a camp up there. I think that it would be nice to have a place to start and end trips. We’ll see!
So I’m pretty settled in now and I’m planning next the 2010 trips to the North Maine Woods. I’m planning a trip to the St. John River. It has more white water and is a little longer than the Allagash. The whitewater is mostly class I and II and there are a two class III rapids. This river saves the hardest water for last which is good for building up experience before running the class III. Of course I’m also planning another Allagash trip.
Blessings, Jamal Lee-Elkin